Italy - Umbria

The walled, medieval, eagle's eyrie of Todi sits high on a hill in an absolutely gorgeous setting surrounded by green and gold, undulating hills and valleys: its streets converge on the 13th-15th century Piazza del Popolo, the centre of civic life both for Romans and the Etruscans alike and now considered by many cognoscenti to be the most beautiful in all of Italy; the Palazzo dei Priori with square battlements, the Palazzo del Popolo and the Palazzo del Capitano that are connected by a fine gothic stairway to make one of the most remarkable town halls in Italy; several palazzos and then – just outside the walls – the ivory-coloured, Tempio di Santa Maria della Consolazione figure among the great architectural treasures gracing this incomparable but little know town.

"Etruscan cuisine" is imaginative and traditional: starters include coppa and other charcuterie created by the local specialists, norcineria; fresh pasta is popular, and such delicacies as gnocchi in walnut and chocolate sauce or spaghettoni, special thick spaghetti, are eaten in all parts of the region; a rich diversity of freshwater fish and eels are central to most menus; black and white truffles as well as mushrooms are in most sauces; lentils from the Castelluccio area are considered to be a delicacy; among the meats, pork is king – second only to wild boar; duck, pigeon, goose, mutton and lamb are also very popular in this part of the world; dolce and chocolate from Perugia round off most meals; fine wines from Tuscany are often drunk but local wines from Montefalco are well thought of by Italians.